One tree, two tree, red tree, blue tree

We left Callahan's Lodge last Tuesday morning with our next goal being to get to Katie's parents cabin at Diamond Lake by Saturday at 5pm. We had 5 days and 125 miles to get there.

My new insoles felt better for my feet but still didn't do the trick. Thankfully since we are in volcano country, I found a pumice rock and have been using that on my calluses to help smooth them out and shave them down. That has helped a little, but is still not the magical fix I have been looking for. For now I am hoping rest and lower mileage days coming up will allow my feet to heal.

The first two days on this 5 day stretch were very smokey from the numerous fires in Southern Oregon. Even though the sun was out, the smoke was so thick you couldn't see the sun and the visibility was only about 100-200 feet at times. It was quite eerie to hike in. Thankfully it cleared up some over a few days to where we actually had views when we did get above the trees. The terrain has been more gentle than in California and we are in the trees a lot of the time. The temperatures have also cooled down considerably and it is much more comfortable to hike in this weather.

We once again caught back up with Gumby and Double-It!  Crazy to think we have known them now for over 100 days now. It is always fun hiking with them as it makes the miles go by faster. We got to catch up with stories we each have had over the weeks we have hiked apart. Of course this includes any good trail gossip out there like who has left or finished the trail, injuries, hook-ups, engagements, scary encounters, etc.. It is sort of pathetic how gossipy the trail gets and how fast news travels by foot (thanks in part to social media), but when it is all you have day after day you start to understand why.

The 3rd day we met Goose Burrito who hiked the trail back in 1977 and  again in 2003! He was car camping in the area and was at a road crossing helping out a few other hikers by giving them a ride to a resort nearby. It was fun hearing some of his stories and he gave all of us at the road each a cold frappuccino which hit the spot.

Our 4th day was fueled by thoughts of the rumored all-you-can-eat pizza at Mazama Village in Crater Lake NP. It was a mile off the PCT, but that was well worth it for "real" food in my mind.  The 4 of us got there in time for dinner only to hear from the waitress they have not had the pizza buffet in years and now only offer an all-you-can-eat soup and salad bar.  Although we were bummed about this news, we took advantage of fresh veggies, chili and cornbread and had no problems stuffing ourselves uncomfortably. We managed to waddle a couple miles back up the trail before calling it a night.

Our 5th day we got to Crater Lake and boy was it beautiful. The 2,000ft deep lake was as smooth as glass and ever so blue when we were there Saturday morning. The trail took us along the rim of the lake for a few miles, so we had great views of it all morning long. We hiked off and on with the group of people that were planning on joining us for the night at the cabin. The plan was to be at the highway by 5pm to get picked up to go to Diamond Lake, so all 7 of us ended up hiking within an hour of each other.

As we got closer to the highway, our cabin meeting place, thoughts of seeing my dog and parents as well as knowing I had 3 days of rest ahead of me helped make those last few miles fly by. The trail was flat but there were probably upwards of 100 down trees on the trail to negotiate. This made for a much slower go.

I was hoping my parents might be on the trail with my dog hiking in if they arrived early. Sure enough I spotted my Dad on the trail about a 1/2 mile from the road. My Mom and Lexi were heading back to the car, but we managed to catch up with them. I was super excited to see my dog and the reunion with her was better than I could have hoped. She remembered exactly who I was and sprinted right up to me wiggling her butt, licking my face and doing laps around me. It was quite cute...if only she knew she is about to be working her butt off hiking with me for the next couple weeks, then maybe she wouldn't have been as happy to see me!

Pics from top to bottom:
-Oregon trees and lots of them
-lava fields
-me by Devils Peak
-Crater Lake
-Lexi relaxing on the dock at Diamond Lake

Welcome to Oregon!

A lot has happened since we left Etna. Here is the quick recap:
-we saw 4 bears in 2 days in the Marble Mountains (2 cubs and 2 medium-sized guys)
-we hiked our longest day yet, 32 miles
-we hit Day 100 as we walked into Seiad Valley with the temperature reading 107
-we crossed the California/Oregon border on July 28th, Day 102
-Midnight Chocolate still has poison oak

And for other tidbits...
I am having some pretty bad foot pain where I have built up calluses on the balls of my feet. It feels like shooting pain when I hit my foot just right. This is making hiking quite painful, especially the second half of the day. I just picked up new insoles and hope they and an alternate lacing system with my shoelaces will do the trick. I have come too far to be just now feeling this kind of pain, so I am optimistic something will work.

We have been on a pretty aggressive hiking schedule since Castella with our goal being to get to Diamond Lake by the 3rd of August for some much needed R&R for 3 full days! We are both really excited for the break as our bodies are certainly tired. Here I will pick up my dog, Sexy Lexi, for a couple weeks to hike with me too.

I am really happy to be in Oregon as it feels like real progress has been made. It is crazy to think I just walked the entire state of California. What is crazier is that it took 1699 miles to get through it and if I had driven through California on I-5 Google Maps says it would have been 839 miles and taken 13hrs 17min.

I want to thank those who have sent care packages throughout this trip. The timing of the various packages has been eerily impeccable...we have received food and homemade goodies when we needed to add more food or a resupply store wasn't available. We have gotten socks when we just got holes in our other pairs, elecrolytes when we we were just talking about needing them days prior. We were sent tasty microbrews when there was no good beer options near us. Your notes, comments, emails and cards have always been great to get as an added pick me up. It almost feels like the Hunger Games where a little capsule drops from the sky when we are in need of something. The good news is no one dies in this adventure :-)

Now we are at Callahan's Lodge near Ashland. It is a very nice lodge that is hiker-friendly. We can get all our chores done here, camp in their backyard area, the first beer is free and tonight we get their bottomless pasta dinner with homemade meat sauce, bread and salad. Not sure what more I could possibly ask for!

Now onwards to Crater Lake and our 3 days of rest! Some pics are below and here are the updated trail stats for day 103, mile 1627:
# snakes: 24
# bears: 5
# days rain: 3
# nights indoor: 14
# showers: 22
# loads of laundry: 16
# pushups: 740

To Etna and beyond!

After a restful night at the Castle Crags SP, we walked back to the market/gas station to wait for Midnight Chocolate's parents to pick Xena up. While we were there we ran into some familiar faces! We hung out with Stilts, Muppet, Baxter and Wildcat who we last saw 800 miles ago. Samba and Tallywa showed up as well. 

After Xena left, we hung around a little longer as it is hard to leave the comfort of friends and a convenience store within a 50 step walk. However, we knew it would be best mentally to hit the trail again even though the heat of the day was upon us. That afternoon we hiked 12 miles and got our big climb out of the way which took us around, up and eventually behind the Castle Crags. 

The next morning Midnight Chocolate discovered she had a good bout of poison oak. Turns out she is highly allergic to it. It looked pretty nasty, so I included a pic of it below. :)  As for the hiking, we were above treeline for most of the day and it was beautiful. We hiked along the crest and over numerous saddles looking down upon many lakes. We ran into a nice day hiker on a break. She asked us if we were hiking the whole trail. After we said yes she said, "I brought you a piece of fruit, but you will have to share," and pulled out a white peach. It was delicious. We sat on the trail eating it while talking to her about our hike. Later we had a siesta at an ice cold spring that was coming out right under the trail! Here we met Forest who was hiking southbound as he is flip-flopping the PCT to hopefully connect all the miles together to complete his hike this fall. It was fun talking to him about who he had seen in front of us in the previous days, yet a little bit of a bummer to hear how far away some of our friends were from us.

Our third day out we did our first 30 mile day! It was a flatter stretch of trail so we figured it would be a good time to try it. It wasn't nearly as bad as I was expecting. Many of the water  sources showing on our map were actually dry and one stream that did have water flowing smelled horrible as we came upon it. When we got to it, there was a hand-written note from a fellow hiker not to get water here (see pic below). Nice to know the hikers ahead are looking out for us!

Thankfully the next day was not as hot as we had cloud cover.  It was nice to not feel restricted to hiking in the morning and evening avoiding the heat of the day. We hiked 25 miles and got to camp at 6pm which is unusually early for PCT standards.

These longer days helped set us up for a short hike today to get us to Etna Summit. When we got to the road, Emporer had been waiting there for 40 minutes without a single car coming by. Sure enough, we were there about 2 minutes when a pick-up truck came by and took all three of us straight to Motel Etna!

Ahhh, I do love town days! Even though we are only here for the night, it still feels like a rest day. We were majorly in need of laundry as it had been 11 days since the last wash. After showers and laundry, the next logical thing to do was to hit the Etna Brewery!  Now it is well past hiker midnight (9pm) and I am ready for a good night sleep in a bed. Tomorrow we hit the trail and work our way towards Seiad Valley and soon after will enter Oregon!

Trail stats after 98 days and 1606 miles:
# snakes: 23
# bears: 1
# pushups: 710
# nights indoor: 14
# showers: 20
# loads laundry: 15
# days of rain: 3

Pics from top to bottom:
- Castle Crags in back
- 7 days of food for us
- Hiking above treeline
- Midnight Chocolate's poison oak
- Dead cow water sign
- Hitching into Etna
- Cool rocks in the Russian Wilderness

Feeling Hot, Hot, Hot!

Anish from Bellingham, WA is going for the FKT (fastest known time) on the PCT South to North. The current record going North to South was set in 2009 by Scott Williamson at 65 days 9 hours and 58 minutes. He set this record hiking the entire trail unsupported which means no slack packing and not even accepting rides into town to resupply. Anish started June 8th and is currently on pace to break the record. To do this she needs to average more than 41.5 miles per day! She just passed us last Thursday the 11th and we barely were even able to say hello as she flew by us. You can follow her progress on Facebook at www.Facebook.com/AnishHikes

We are starting to see more and more of "the pack" passing us. These are the people that started after the PCT "kick-off" which was about 10 days after we started the trail. It is cool seeing new faces, but for some reason it is a little hard seeing more and more people passing us. As they say though, hike your own hike.

It has been fun having Katie's dog with us; something else to look at and talk about. Xena is slowly getting her trail legs but has been dictating the day's schedule. This means getting up at 4:30am to have the most time out of the heat and overall longer but lazier days with lots of breaks. You can tell when she is getting hot and/or tired as she will jog through the sun section and when she hits shade she will almost immediately lie down to let you know she needs a rest.

The trail from Burney Falls SP to Castella has been in forested areas with lots of logging roads. However we get some great vistas now and then and views of Mt Shasta. There are a lot of overgrown sections with manzanita and spurts of poison oak to carefully avoid too. We have seen two different trail maintenance crews out here making the trail very nice in some shorter 5 mile sections. The temps are in the 90's now and as we get closer to Seied Valley a week away, they will creep up to the 100's! We are working on staying cool and keeping hydrated. So far our decision to ditch the stove for a few weeks has been a good one as we are enjoying not having to cook in this heat.

We made it to Castella and are trying to all stay cool in the shade at Castle Crags SP. After much debate, Katie has made the decision to have Xena picked up. Unfortunately, the heat is too much for a dog, so we are going to say good-bye to Xena Katie will try hiking with her again when we are in Oregon...hopefully with cooler temps. The temps are now in the 100's and climbing higher for the next week at least. Nobody wants to hike in this heat, so why put a dog through that if you don't have to.

Trail stats after 93 days and 1506 miles:
# snakes: 22
# bears: 1
# pushups: 650
# days rain: 3
# nights indoor: 13
# showers: 19
# loads laundry: 14

Pictures from top to bottom:
- Break time with Xena!
- Katie & Xena w/ Shasta in background
- Nasty socks!
- Overgown trail section
- Mt Shasta
- PCT sign at Castle Crags SP
- Another beautiful view of N. CA

New Kicks

Our hike into the park yesterday was 10 miles of mostly flat and lightly forested terrain. At 8:00am we came upon trail magic of cold Budweiser beer...nothing like beer for breakfast! A half hour later more trail magic with coolers of soda, water and candy bars. It is so amazing how many people  there are out here doing trail magic and being so kind and generous. It certainly gives me a new perspective of mankind and I hope I can return the favor to thru hikers in the future.

The last few days we have been ahead of schedule. We meet up with Katie's parents Saturday and even with 2 low mileage days in a row, we werte a day early into our meeting place, Burney Falls SP. The good news is they had a General Store with soft-serve ice cream and coin-operated showers, so we had no problems waiting here for a night. We sat in the shade for a few hours eating meat and cheese and drinking water when we saw Chief come around the corner. He had taken the day off today and was camped at a nice site. Chief and Maureen asked for us to join them and that they could have up to 8 people at their site. Sure enough, an hour or so later there were 8 other hikers that showed up. We grabbed a bunch of beers and hot dogs and all camped together sharing stories of the trail.

On a separate note, I am in desperate need of new shoes and thankfully they arrived in the knick of time! My shoes have over 700 miles on them and have been through the Sierras, numerous stream crossings, as well as lava rock. Needless to say, the tread is wearing. Worse than the tread are the condition of my insoles. The cushion is gone and I am wearing through the material in places. The constant dirt in my shoes doesn't help with the wear either. I have a pic below of my old shoes and insoles compared to the new pair. Nasty!

Also, my feet are starting to feel a little weird too. My toes go numb often while hiking and at rest. My feet also swell quickly when I am not walking. I have tried to be good about elevating them, but it seems to help only temporarily. I have asked other hikers about their feet and it seems to be a common problem. I guess that is good to know I am not alone, but still doesn't seem right. Hopefully the new shoes will help!

Lastly, Midnight Chocolate and her dog, Sleeping Dragon (a.k.a. Xena), had a reunion here in Burney today. Sleeping Dragon will be with us until Ashland! Katie's parents flew her in and will be spending the next couple of days with us.

We plan to make numerous changes with gear to help lighten our loads, especially since we can send stuff back with them. We decided to not use the stove until after Crater Lake as it has been so hot that cooking seems more of a chore than anything. We also got rid of our cups, extra pens, batteries, etc. and Katie swapped out her backpack.  Hopefully these changes will help make our loads more comfortable.

Trail stats after 87 days and 1424 miles:
# snakes: 22
# bears: 1
# days rain: 3
# pushups: 580
# nights indoors: 12
# showers with soap: 17
# loads laundry: 13

Pics from top to bottom:
- Budweiser trail magic!
- The trail into Burney
- Lava fields
- Old vs. new shoes
- Katie and Xena
- Hat Rim
- More awesome trail magic

Spoiled slackers

We left Belden at 6:30am with the sound of rave music still thumping across the river. I wish we could have heard the music for a while as we had a 14 mile climb to start out. We made it 21 miles and called it a night.

The highlight of the next day, Day #81, was officially crossing the halfway point of the PCT. This is marked by a post along the trail.  We took a break here and signed in to the registry. It was fun to see the names of hikers in front of us, probably about 60 or so names (not everyone chooses to sign in though). It is crazy we are halfway done and still in California!

From this point on, we ran into lots of unexpected trail magic...We crossed Hwy 36 in the morning and found coolers of fresh fruit and sodas from a trail angel. We continued on and after 22 miles we went through Warner Valley CG where we saw Chief and his wife, Maureen, with their camper. Chief's wife is taking a few weeks off supporting her husband at various points along the  trail. We had intended on saying hi for a few minutes and then hiking on a few more miles, but after some lemonade, fruit and an offer to "slack pack", we put up our tent there and each cracked open a beer. Slack packing is where someone takes the contents of your backpack ahead for you and you hike with just food and water for the day, essentially like a day hike. After Maureen made us a wonderful breakfast, she drove our stuff to Old Station and Chief, Katie and I set off at 6:30am for our 23 mile "day hike" to Old Station. Oh man, slack packing felt great! It was a good break from the weight of the pack and our pace was so much faster. We hiked through Lassen NP and went through a couple different burn areas. The trail was mostly flat and downhill and the ground was soft and dusty, we even trail ran a few miles. We were 3 miles away from Old Station when we encountered some unexpected trail magic from 2 old thru hikers from 1999. They had a banner welcoming us to their trail magic and when we walked over there we were given cold soda, pastries and fresh watermelon. Wow, what a treat on a hot day!

We reached the Hat Creek RV Park at 3pm and caught back up with Maureen who had just arrived and had a great site by the stream. We did laundry, showered and relaxed for the afternoon. Once again Chief and Maureen let us camp with them. Maureen also fed us homemade chili and we split a bottle of wine. Great end to an awesome day!

After a restful sleep we woke up and were invited in for pancakes and coffee with Maureen and Chief. I haven't ate this well in weeks and their kindness is amazing! We set off at 8am to hike 7 miles with a side detour to check out Subway Cave (pic below), and then took a siesta at their camper until 4pm to stay out of the heat. We hiked on until about 9:15pm so we had to break out the headlamps but were rewarded with a great view of Mt Shasta with the sun setting behind it. I "cowboy camped" for the first time in my life last night (camped without a tent); the stars were out and the moon just a sliver. It was a beautiful night.

Next stop is Burney Falls SP where we will meet up with Katie's parents and Katie picks up her dog Xena for a couple weeks of hiking.

Trail stats after 84 days and 1398 miles:
# snakes: 23
# bears: 1
# days rain: 3
# nights indoor: 12
# showers with soap: 16
# beers: 37
# loads laundry: 13
# chocolate milk: 10
# pushups: 560

Pics from top to bottom:
- Footprints
- Siesta at the camper
- View of the trail
- More cows!
- Boiling Mud Lake at Mt Lassen NP
- Lunch time and Katie's stove
- Chief and Katie entering Subway Cave
- Our favorite trail angel, Maureen, and me

Hikers from hell

After accidentally throwing the maps away that we needed for our next section, I went dumpster diving for them unsuccessfully. Thankfully technology came through and we both uploaded the maps to our phones. I don't like to rely on this, but it certainly helped in this situation. 

I redeemed myself later that afternoon by hitching is a ride back to the trailhead in about 8 seconds. We started out of Sierra City about 3pm and immediately climbed up an exposed and hot 3,500ft. That day we hiked about 10 miles before calling it a night.

The next day we ran back into Gumby and Double-It and leap-frogged with them throughout the day. We had a break together at The A Tree which had a delicious ice cold spring! After our break, we noticed the clouds starting to build up around us and they were not looking pretty. Right before we reached treeline we decided to have dinner and just keep an eye on the clouds. They started to look a little better, so we made a run for our last 5 miles which unfortunately were mostly uphill. I was sweating like crazy trying to keep up with Katie.  Once we were above treeline the view of the storm was pretty spectacular and safe for viewing as it was a few miles away from us. The four of us all camped together that night exhausted, but happy we went for it.

The next day was again hot and humid, but we had a good destination for motivation. We had heard that the Feather River had camping and some good water holes for swimming. We hustled that day and made it to the river by 3pm. We immediately dropped our packs and went in the river. The water was refreshing and the perfect temp for bathing and sitting in with the hot sun over us. Turns out many other hikers had the same idea as us...by the end of the night there were 10 of us camped out together.

Our 4th day out was the 4th of July! We had an 8 mile climb out of the valley and then it was rolling hills after that. We had recently found out that there was a resort with 18 beers on tap and homemade pizza, so we decided that if we got 20 miles in and a ride before 4pm, we would treat ourselves to a long break at the bar. Sure enough this motivation did the trick and 4 of us were at the road to hitch by 3pm! The 3 of us girls stuck our thumbs out and the 2nd vehicle picked us up, we all hopped in the back of their pick-up truck. The Lakeside Resort was just as I imagined it would be and more! I had an Icky IPA, which was awesome, and a pizza. There were tons of people, good music playing, a wrap around bar, and views of Bucks Lake. We even got offered a ride back to the trailhead and were able to hike up a couple miles further before the end of the night. Brownie and Lint joined us in Katie's huge tent to escape the mosquitos before heading to bed.

The day into Belden was another hot one with a gruelling downhill to get to town. It was a major culture shock once we got to "town".  Belden is known for their raves and this being 4th of July weekend meant it was a big one. We had to walk right through it all. It was quite the people-watching experience, although I guess they were probably doing the same when they saw us walking through. We called the local trail angels in town, the Braatens, and they picked us up right away.

The Braatens live a mile away from where the raves are and 1/4 mile from a small grill with laundry service.  They have a separate apartment-style place for the hikers with 4 beds, a kitchen, bathroom and dining room. It was the perfect setup and a good place to relax. When we asked for our packages and told her our last names, Brenda said we get the "hikers from hell" award since we had 4 packages waiting for us and they came one at a time each day. Not only did we get our resupply package and our new NeoAir mattresses, but we had two amazing care packages from friends. Thank you to all of you who wrote notes to us, it brought smiles and tears to our faces hearing from you.

The scenery is certainly changing and we are in trees more and more of the time. It is crazy how long ago the desert and Sierras seem and how you soon get used to the new scenery.

We are also getting good at recognizing who is in front of us by their shoe print in the dirt. It is not uncommon at all for someone to come up to us and say something like "do you guys both were Cascadias" or "I knew I was seeing two prints of Cascadias." I guess that is what happens when you have lots of time on your hands and look at the ground a lot each day...

Pictures from top to bottom:
-Climb out of Sierra City
-Katie walking through the Belden rave.
-Before the descent to Belden
-Sierra Buttes
-18 beers on tap!
-Feather River
-View of the storm